FIRST- PLEASE don't message me and complain about the price. Its half the price of a mint condition- yet if you are REALLY looking for THIS particular car, I'm reasonable and negotiable at the end of the day, BUT- if you are NOT looking for THIS particular car specifically, PLEASE don't waste YOUR time and mine to message me complaining about the price or anything else. Just move on if this car is NOT the car you want. I'm in NO RUSH to sell it, it just has no place in my current lifestyle.
My price on the car is based on RESEARCH, not what local collectors feel its worth, or what you or I think it should be sold for. Its based on Kelley Blue Book, N.A.D.A., Current mint condition and used cars sold by dealers and everything that I've done TO the car in my ownership. A MINT condition show car of this make and model sells for 30-35 THOUSAND at a dealer. I have priced mine accordingly for what it would require to bring it to the level of a 100 point show car. Please make note of the PRICING guides I have added below. ALSO in the Marti report below is what CAME with the car, that is still visible on the car, so PLEASE don't try to be a little miss or mr know-it-all and tell me what IS or ISNT original on this car. I have the history right there below FOR YOU TO READ. EVERYTHING on this car is original, except for the paint, the left side fender and the hood, and of course the mechanical upgrades. I know every piece of history from this car. It came from Sacramento, and I bought it in San Francisco from a gentleman I knew. THIS IS AVERY VERY VERY VERY VERY RARE CAR. ONE out of a thousand or so made according to the Marti report below:The car is EXACTLY as seen in the pictures:
I kept the interior coated with dealership plastic, after I cleaned the car inside and out recently and I NEVER carry passengers to preserve the cleanliness and purity of the upholstery. (However, since It HAS been driven for 72,000 miles, so the DRIVER'S seat has developed a 12 inch tear on the side of the seam of the seat. This is MINOR in contrast to the car as a whole:
Door Tag:

Pictures taken this past summer:

























Additional video:Its STILL registered and insured, so it works 100%. The car can be yours no problem. I will even arrange the auto shipping at no extra cost- PROVIDING the car sells at the ASKING price. If I take an offer YOU must provide the shipping finance privately. I can REFER you to some however. Anywhere from 800-1200 generally.

THE GOOD:
ALL but ONE of the electrical functions work. The only electrical function that doesn't work is the little triangular rear power windows. That window requires a separate motor, which I have not been able to find yet. All other power functions work and I have provided video proof of this below:

• Power top
• Power DRIVERS SEAT
• Power windows (all but the small rear ones work entirely)
• Power Brakes
• Power Steering
• POWER DRIVERS SIDE MIRROR (factory remote controlled)
• Remote controlled stereo system
• Factory tilt wheel (RARE factory feature)
• New fuses
• All signals work

Engine starting right up, and idling, tachometer responding when engine is revved (two different locations- one first thing in the morning, and the other later on that evening. And yes, I AM aware of the exposed wiring below. That morning I was re-wiring the front speakers so you will see that there). Ideally you should have someone else film while you're operating the car, I had to do everything with one hand while trying to see through the little window frame of the camera. Also, you'll notice people (girls mostly) stop to check out the car. Listen to how SOFT and BASSY low-frequency the exhaust purrs... BUT don't be mistaken, it's LOW FREQUENCY, but LOUD!!! It can be heard from down the street and up in the floors above in that building (I actually had a few people complain about "the loud engine that we can hear 12 floors up"- its LOUD but pleasant, if you're a car guy, musician, or just an enthusiast of sound)
Windows and electrical functions working. LOOK CLOSELY YOU'LL NOTICE THE POWER SEAT MOVING BACK AND FORTH!! And notice the tachometer responding when I rev the engine. Everything works.

UNDER THE HOOD(most work done this summer):

• 351 Cleveland original engine
• Original FMX "cruise-o-matic" automatic transmission that shifts nice & easy and no worries no problems EVER.
• New Motorcraft 2v carburetor
• New Hoses
• New Starter(new ignition on the column also)
  
• New Alternator
• New BELTS
• New coil
• New spark plugs
• Recent full Tune Up
• New Solenoid
  
• Battery is recent and I JUST changed the terminals for the WIRES, which are also NEW (even though the OLD terminals are pictured there, I hadn't noticed. I AM aware now and I will take new pictures).
  
• Radiator replaced in AUGUST.
• Just look at the pics. Nearly everything under the hood is NEW except the actual block itself and the engine BAY of course.
  
• THE CAR RUNS MINT CONDITION, GREAT HANDLE AND RESPONSE. I also own a Honda from 2009, and the Cougar drives so smooth sometimes I forget which car I'm in.

REAR END (all work done 2010-2011):

• BRAND NEW Flowmaster DUAL EXHAUST Delta Flo 40 series kit front to back
• RARE SEQUENTIAL LIGHTS THAT ALL WORK!!!
• New Fuel Lines
• New Brakes front AND rear- Master Cylinder + Brake booster done last year(and the car was rarely driven since until this summer)
• New alignment
  
• New Leaf Springs + shocks are excellent
  
• New Trunk mat
• All four tires are about 3 years old and I have TWO original spares
• NEW OLD STOCK ORIGINAL Cragar SS wheels deep dish rears from the 70's! In very good presentable condition and well kept for 30 year old wheels that are IMPOSSIBLE to find NOS original, and will cost you over 1000 for all four NEW.
• The convertible top motor is pretty new (mid '09) and the actual TOP was replaced in 06. Also, the LATCHES for the top inside the car are new. This car is 85% new aside from COSMETICS. Oh the paint is actually new, too, but New York city, you can't avoid vandalism and damage if you're NOT standing right there next to the car. Minor scratches and blemishes are present overall, but not immediately visible 5 feet away. I'm REALLY selling it for what it's worth. It's a 20,000.00 car any way you look at it. Compare. Shop around and see. These cars MINT run 30 and better, unless YOU yourself build them from the ground up. I know, I've been collecting for ten+++ years. I am NOT young.
  
• Nearly all receipts for all workare in my possession.
  
• Car IS registered AND insured. It's being used in film + videos, tattoo magazine ads etc etc, so I would definitely consider that as it WILL have that added to its value.
  

EXTERIOR / INTERIOR- ALL ORIGINAL with exception to the driver's side fender and hood, and of course added features - stereo system and carpeting perhaps (althoughthe carpetingwas in the car when I got it):

• ORIGINAL LEATHER SEATS!!!!! (please look at the photos of the impeccable interior).
• Sony Xplod -ipod and XM sattelite ready- withpioneer speaker remote controlled sound system. The speakers were built into the back panels. Tweeters were also put into the front panels where the remote mirror switch would be. I know better "SST secret audio" systems exists now. I didn't when I did all the radio installationa fewyears ago.
• New steering wheel (replaced some years ago because it matched the woodgrain)
• PAINT is recent, and ALOT of $$$$$$$$$$$$$ was put into getting this car to look how it does now despite New York destructive weather and public vandalism.
• NO ROT to the actual frame of the car the FRAME is good(rust can be cleaned with a can of PEPSI at the most primitive level, for those who may believe that rust is permanent. This is but a MYTH. Rust, despite being a headache for anyone, IS still REMOVEABLE to a very great extent before it becomes ROT).
• All parts except for the driver's side fender and the hood are original. I was CONSIDERING getting ANOTHER fender because of the damage that is there NOW which happened last halloween.
• There are 3 or 4 tiny dots of rot in the trunk, and rust, but it's solid otherwise, still hard. There is also ONE spot in the backseat floor area that need patching done, because of rust rot prior to my ownership that I didn't discover till much after the fact. Ask for pics of this if you are concerned.
• Nearly EVERYTHING on this car is new, if not upgraded or originally preserved to the best of its presentation.
  
• NEW REAR TIRES

THE BAD(only FOUR things, and they're COSMETIC):

• 1) RUST. There is rust on the underside of the car. AGAIN, this is entirely UNNECESSARY to DRIVE the car.Its a 20 footer, and looks flawless at 20 feet. You can hardly notice any of the minor dings and scratches in the main picture. If you're going to be a purist, the car would need a whole new floor if you want a rust-free mint condition show car level floor. But AGAIN, only YOU would know this unless you drive around with people under your car, or you intend to enter this car in a contest. The back seat floor area, behind the driver's seat has a rot hole/cracking area the size of the bottom of a can of soda. I have priced a replacement floor job The carpets are 129 on mustangs unlimited.com and 189 for Mach One carpeting. A new TRUNK floor (although it doesn't need one) is 114, Entire front + rear floor UNDERLAYMENT = 36.95. Right side floor pan, and left side floor pan, 99.95 EACH . The bumpers also have rust and need to be re-chromed (200 each). A complete new paint job (which it doesn't need- but if you would like to restore it back to factory color when fixing the rust and body adjustments that it would need- visible in all the videos) priced at 2500 labor, plus cost of paint additional at the CHEAPEST, and 6500 at the MOST.

• 2) The WEATHERSTRIPPING on the windows need to be replaced, (also the TOP should have some, but never came with any- not even when I had the top replaced) so the car will not have leaks when it rains. Also the passenger window has a small horizontal inch chip at the top which is not that visible, and does not cause leaks- its purely cosmetic.

• 3) The little rear power windows need a new power motor.

• 4) The drivers seat has become unstitched (shown in video and pictures)

If you add all the costs of what I have just listed below (and thats STRETCHING it. You don't NEED all this to be able to DRIVE the car respectably), it will STILL have you at WAY below 30,000 dollars- so no matter what way you wanna look at it, the price of my car is reasonable, and realistic if you would LIKE to have this car turned into a "show car" but again, its being sold as a DAILY DRIVER at an ASKING price of 17000 dollars. That price, at the end of the day can be negotiated reasonably. BUT... If you're one of those low lives who are waiting for some rich old guy to die, to go to his estate and find his car for 11000 dollars auctioned off, THIS car is NOT for you. Keep looking for that lotto ticket. I'm selling a car priced at market value, not at a "steal" for low-ballers.***Price value:PLEASE KEEP IN MIND, THAT I AM NOT ADVERTISING, OR SELLING A SHOW CAR. I'M SELLING A DAILY DRIVER, AND ITS PRICED AT THAT. I DRIVE IT EVERY DAY, and I'm sick of the handful of LOW LIFES who are INTERESTED in the car, and try to lowball me when they see me in it and say, "oh this car needs a FULL restoration" just to try to low-ball me. It needs NOTHING to be driven and appreciated. The videos show that it starts right up and HUMS nice and clean while idle. It needs THREE or FOUR things to have it as a show car, but I'm not selling a show car. For the low-ballers, TRUST me, I get MORE people who stop me and take PICTURES of the car and tell me how beautiful it is and what great condition I've kept it in, than I get people who tell me "oh you need a full restoration." I know what I own. Keep that in mind. I'm experienced.
The last comparable car to mine (model and year I mean) was listed on ebay with a 35,000.00 reserve price and rightfully so, it was fully restored and MINT condition. This is MY asking price based on NADA, DEALS ON WHEELS, and a few other sources Ive been familiar with for many years, and compared to other FAR more inferior looking cars of this same make, with less luxury features and additions that I've seen for sale. HERE are some OTHER listings and pricing examples so you can see that this is what these cars are worth and how they are priced - PLEASE NOTICE THE PRICES THAT THESE CARS ARE SELLING FOR AT THE BOTTOM CORNER OF THE ADS!!! 14,998.00 at the LOWEST and 32,500.00 and the HIGHEST. That puts my car somewhere exactly in the middle overall:

AND:

About ME:

• I studied Law at St John's University in Queens and am currently in continuing ed for design. I intend to DESIGN my own car at some point. I design everything from tech gadgets to skateboards, to clothing and apparel and accessories. I own two companies: clothing and entertainment and I also study film.
  
• I've worked for an automobile trade association in the past, I build and repair almost anything that has nuts bolts and wires when and if I have the time.
• I've been a classic car / muscle car enthusiast since sixteen. I've been ACTIVE in the collecting and restoration process since 03. (my familiarity and interest is primarily Ford however)
  
• I am a VERY honest, credible, decent person of merit and integrity and respect all people in advance, as I would like to be given the same respect.
• I would LOVE to keep this car, as I don't really want to sell it, because I know it's value, but it's not practical at all in a big city.
  
  See pricing info above for "20 footer"... this is a SEVEN footer.
  

This car needs absolutely NOTHING mechanically, (which is MOST important) and needs only MINOR cosmetic attention which is only noticeable if you are standing RIGHT UP to the car. These issues are: new window moldings could be used, there are scratches, and I was hit by a hit and run garbage truck in Manhattan last halloween. The damage is a line indentation about the length of an adult man's hand, and about a quarter centimeter deep. It was priced at 500.00 to touch up, and I was going to put an insurance claim but paperwork is annoying and the premium deductible is about 500, so its not to my benefit, and so I just left it. This damage can be seen in the videos if you happen to notice, and pause it. I also have many extra parts that would be needed in case of anything. I chromed the quarter extensions, but it does not matter, I still have the originals. They can be changed whenever. The car CAME with factory A/C but it is not hooked up. Again, it never got in my way (the car is a convertible what's the point of A/C??) so I just left it. I will have this working before the auction ends. The battery platform (where it sits) is beginning to rot. I am looking into having this taken care of. The chrome bumpers are not flawless. They look decent, but have rust specks and spotted areas.Anything that is not perfect on this car does NOT get in the way of the performance or overall presentation and image of the car. It's not really that important unless you intend to enter a contest... and in THAT event, you should seek a "100 point" or 30,000 dollar MUSEUM QUALITY car, which is never DRIVEN, but TRAILORED to and from its locations. I'm selling a FIVE footer at a 20 footer market value.

Get a Shipping Quote for this car: Auto Transport Quote